The Paris Flea Market: Shopping Les Puces de Saint-Ouen
The first time I went to Les Puces (the Fleas) in the Porte de Cligancourt in Paris, I didn’t even realize there were many, many sub-markets that I missed, it’s that huge. It was only on my second visit that I grasped the scope of the place, which some say is the world’s largest antique market.
Officially called Le marche aux puces de Saint-Ouen, the market sprawls over six hectares, and contains several thousand shops — or dealers — organized by marchés stocking not just antique furniture, but clothing, books, decorative and household items, and some items which defy classification and function. But function be damned, there’s beauty to be found.
In some cases, birds of a feather flock together and shops that deal in similar goods are clustered together. And other marchés are reputed for a level of quality, cost or speciality. But it’s far from organized, so expect to wander, discover, be inspired and want to take home everything – the best of one can ask for in a shopping experience, non?
To get your bearings, locate a map of the sub-markets. Chances are, you’ll find yourself close to the charming, rambling Marché Vernaison, the wedge-shaped birthplace of the market. Considered one of the more reasonably priced and atmospheric sections, we snapped many a find in Vernaison:
At Catan Antiquities, we happened upon a pair of aviator chairs. Later, we saw similar chairs at others dealers, and a likeness here in New York at ABC Home. I then became aware of similar chairs at Restoration Hardware … nevertheless, the shine is not off — they are still a wonder.
There’s something magnetic about Tombées du Camion – translation: Fell Off the Truck —- also located in Vernaison (and out of two boutiques in Paris, as well). The crowds milling about this curio shop testified to its appeal — chock full of beads, ancient objects, little toys, wooden things and other mysterious objects — all organized neatly in bins and rows. It would be easy to become, shall we say, a little obsessed here.
Wandering across the street from Vernaison, you’ll happen into Marché Dauphine — a relatively new addition to the Puces, and perhaps a welcome change, depending on the weather. Two floors of even more goodness are enclosed in a light, airy and vaguely 80s space.
Booksellers and prints crowd the second floor of Dauphine, but we stumbled upon the vintage clothing seller Falbalas with glee. They had many wearable in the here-and-now fashions, but we were captivated by these men’s uniforms.
On the lower floor of Dauphine, Luc Bonnefond had a lovely selection of imminently versatile furnishings. This blue and metal chair caught our eye, along with nearly everything in the store. But alas, we move on …
In addition to the marchés, proper shops line the streets throughout Les Puces. I could decorate my entire apartment solely out of Ghislain Antiques (with a location here in NYC @ Center 44). Stocked with industrial antiques, curiosities and a selection of vintage-inspired custom furniture, we could not resist this eyeball art.
If it’s French antiques you’re after, head to Maison James (18 rue Voltaire) in Marché Serpette, one of the markets known for higher-end goods.
Maison James specializes in 18th and 19th century stunners: pieces like this massive armoir will give your place that Old World feel that only a massive armoir can do.
And we could go on. And we did — but in the end, amazingly, we left empty-handed, but filled with plenty of inspiration.
If you’re planning a trip to Les Puces, prepare to be on your feet all day, and even then miss large chunks. There are many restaurants within the markets; be sure to give yourself a break and work a long and boozy lunch into itinerary, too.
Alas, if your shopping brings you closer to home, do snap and share your design and style discoveries wherever you are, using the REQOOP shopping app — our #designspotting event is on until 2/28, and a lucky 20 will win a lineposter for sharing inspiring design finds!.










